Davis Grant LLP Blog

Needless to say we all slept well in the hotel. The 4 that went on Safari had to get up at something like 6.15 (very brave if you ask me!) but Craig and I were staying for a rest so could lie-in. We woke at about 7.30 and then chatted for a few hours. Eventually we made it down to breakfast at just before 10. Normal food was so nice and my stomach was starting to settle down so I could eat a bit more than before.

We then settled down by the pool for a spot of sunbathing and started to drift off to sleep…again!  Just as I was in that nice drifting off zone, someone from reception came to tell me the internet shop was now open and so I could use it when I wanted.  I did want to update the blog and had asked them to let me know when it was open.  Obviously I wasn’t best pleased to be disturbed but I tried to relax and drift off again.  This was working when we had another interruption from the same person from reception, this time wanting us to check-out of our room! I had thought about asking for an late check-out but with all the tiredness of the day before forgot to do so.  This second episode aggravated me even more but you should appreciate the hotel wasn’t particularly busy.  Apart from Craig and myself there was the grand total of ONE other guest!  Just why they had to clean the room there and then was beyond me because even if they had a mad rush of ten full coaches there were probably enough rooms spare!!!  It was the end of the walking season so this was perhaps to be expected that the hotel was empty.

We both took a deep breath and tried to see the funny side of it, although by this time I had had a bit of a humour by-pass.  They wanted $50 for the extra few hours which I thought was completely extortionate.  Craig offered them $25 and the receptionist went to check with her supervisor.  By now I was so wound up I wasn’t going to get back to sleep so went to reception and paid the $25.  I think from the look on the chief receptionists face she thought Christmas had come early.  To put it in context we had learnt the average monthly salary in Tanzania is $45.

As I couldn’t sleep the next best thing was to blog! So, I bought an hour of internet time and started to update the story. The time went quickly and I just about saved the changes with a few seconds to go before the clock ran out.  When I got back Craig commented that he heard me shouting at the computer ‘ Come on, save it……..come on!’

By this time it was around midday and after a little bit more relaxing we ordered lunch by the pool, it was (Chezhuan chicken noodles)  the nicest food I had had for over a week.  We then finished our packing and got ready for the jeep to pick us up at 3.15p.m. to take us to meet the others at the airport, which was 2 hours away.

On the way we passed lots of very well uniformed school kids finishing their school day and I thought they very much looked like you would expect to see in the Western World.  The buses were filled to literally overflowing and the towns were mostly primitive.  Fortunately, after quarter of an hour we were on normal roads not dirt tracks.  About three quarters of an hour from the airport, our driver commented that we had just passed the jeep that had just dropped off the other four at the airport and I thought it was a bit early for them to have ended the safari and they would have a long wait at the airport.

Kilimanjaro airport was very small.  Almost as soon as we walked through the front door someone checked our passport and tickets.  Another 10 metres further on were the check-in desks but there was no one manning them (because the flights weren’t called yet).  We found the safari four in a bar/restaurant already quite bored!  We caught up on the news for the day and found out they had a very enjoyable safari where they saw quite a lot of animals and it was certainly worth the early start and was great fun.  To waste a bit of time we looked around the shops and bought some bits and pieces for our families at home.  There wasn’t a great deal to choose from but we managed to find something.

The flight took off on time and even though it was only an hour to Nairobi we spread out and slept a bit…..again!  As it was dark we didn’t get the chance for a final glimpse of the mountain.

Our stop-over in Nairobi was unfortunately 3 hours!  This was too much for some of our group to endure and so we negotiated a bulk entrance into the first-class lounge.  I don’t think they knew what they let themselves in for as six hungry Jewish lads looking for some food takes some satisfying ( to clarify: all food and drink was included in the entrance cost!).   Anyway, we just about managed to eat enough mini-pizzas, samosas and much more to keep the hunger at bay.  A few glasses of wine, the occasional beer and a Jack Daniels helped too, but not all for the same person!

I got on the internet for a while and updated the blog again.

Eventually, it was time to board our flight which took off on time and again wasn’t full so we could spread out and sleep…..again!  I did manage to watch the film ‘True Grit’ also.

After the 9 hour flight we landed around 6 a.m. at Heathrow.  We then learnt of the news that had been going on in our homes and in the world, the earthquake and tsunami had happened in Japan and events were progressing in Libya – none of this we had heard much off in our cocooned week.  Stuart heard his wife had to have an operation whilst he was away and so he rushed off to the hospital (just as well he had given his luggage away)!  Thankfully Natalie is now making a good recovery.

In all the excitement I only picked up my large kit bag and rucksack but left my small overnight case on the carousel!  I didn’t discover this until I had reached home and so had to return to Heathrow Tuesday morning to pick it up – this was not exactly what I had in mind!

Leon (my brother-in-law, excellent mini-cab service if anyone should need, just ask)  picked us up as arranged.   He had also successfully climbed Kilimanjaro around 9 years ago and so we swapped some stories.    He only laughed when we asked why he hadn’t explained it was so hard getting down from the mountain and we all agreed it was similar to the fact that women aren’t that forthcoming about giving birth to other women who haven’t yet shared the experience!  Needless to say it was long  before we all fell asleep ……again!!!

It was great for me to be back home with Lorraine and the kids as I had missed them so much.  My parents also came round that evening for stories and supper and brought me a bottle of Champagne and chocolates to celebrate.

I found it very surreal to be back in our normal world, which hadn’t changed at all from when I left.  But I had been on this amazing adventure, achieving so much on many different levels which seemed to have changed my own world and I now needed to reconcile the two.

It’s now nearly a week since I came back and I am still feeling the effects, although think I am nearly ‘back to normal’ – whatever that now means.

The story is now almost over.  We have a get together planned for this weekend to swap photos and reminisce.  I have a bit more blog to do, in which I will try to describe my feelings and thoughts about the whole trip.

I would like to take this chance of thanking everyone who has been following the blog for your kind comments and enthusiastic feedback since we have returned.  I should also give a big thanks to Lorraine who, despite being quite ill when we were away, still spent hours each night collating information and updating the blog.

Needless to say we all slept very well on our last night under canvas.  Craig was still coughing away, which woke me up, but I had little trouble in going back to sleep.  At 6.30a.m. we were awoken with the usual cup of tea and ‘washy washy bowls’.

You can see that I dragged the bowls inside the outer section of tent so that on the last day we had the en-suite version!

After a quick face and teeth cleaning session we got ready and packed or bags for the very last time.  After breakfast there was the traditional tipping ceremony for all the porters and guides and as we were so impressed for all they had done for us we tipped the maximum, as advised by the tour company.  They all seemed really happy and then sang a traditional Kilimanjaro song for us.

 

After this, we started the last part of our descent.  Almost immediately it was clear Craig was still in trouble with his breathing and he was taking very frequent rest stops.  We decided that Stuart would stay with Craig, as he was also suffering with an altitude cough and the rest of us would try to get down as soon as possible and arrange whatever rescue we could for them.  The head guide, Makeke, stayed with Craig and Stuart, James and Hope came with the rest of us.

We were all still really shattered and without much energy at all, unfortunately the route was really difficult underfoot.  It was quite steep downhill and we were following dried up riverbeds, which had loads of rocks, tree roots and other obstacles in them.  As with the day before each step I took was still giving me pains in my stomach.  It was however getting hotter and we were now in T-shirts and thin trousers with the bottom sections zipped off i.e. shorts!   I knew the sun was strong and even though I had suncream in my daybag, couldn’t be bothered to use it!

One fascinating thing I saw in the riverbeds was that for quite a while there seemed to be small shiny reflective rocks on the ground that caught the sunlight.  I picked some of these up and was told by James they were caused as part of the volcanic eruption.  The sparkly bits seemed to make me happy and lift my spirits!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After three and a half hours we eventually got  to our lunch stop, which was half an hour before the rescue vehicle area.  Because the kitchen had now finished we were given a fabulous packed lunch.  This consisted of a very welcome fruit drink which I managed to sip slowly, two deep fried splodges of something (which when I broke apart seemed to be very greasy, so I gave them to the birds!) and a bar of chocolate, which you may find unbelievable but I didn’t fancy eating at all!

We didn’t wait long for lunch and then started the last half an hour.  We were now back into lush rainforest, which was very dense and lovely to walk through.

When we got to the very end and saw the jeep there was a huge sense of relief that it was finally over.  But in a strange way we were all still too tired to make much of a fuss about it.  We waited for another group to join us for the ride back to Marangu Gate and I ended up sitting in the front next to a very smelly Spanish man!  He explained, as best he could, his ankle was broken and could not move from side to side or up and down, but it had been impossible to arrange a stretcher or other recovery for him because the terrain was so difficult and he was made to walk back to the jeep from Kilimanjaro.   When I heard this it seemed Craig would have no option but to do the same and we were all concerned as to how he would manage that.  The jeep was full to the brim with, I don’t know how many people, but we were thankful to be taken back to the gate.

 

We signed the visitors book, documenting how far we got and the time and then had a very welcome cold drink.   We loosened our boots and waited for either a taxi to the hotel or news of Craig and Stuart.  We had decided to go back to the hotel as we thought the wait would be quite long for the other two to arrive, but just as we were finishing our negotiation for ‘I climbed Kilimanjaro T-Shirts’, we heard they were now at the lunch stop and seemed to have made up loads of time.  We decided to wait for them to get back and soon the jeep was on the way to collect them.  It was a fantastic feeling for everyone to be together at the final gate having completed such a phenomenal trek.  We asked Craig how he had made it down so quickly and he explained that they had given him some oxygen on a couple of occasions when he was really struggling to carry on without it.  Craig said, ‘the oxygen was amazing and made him feel so awake and energised he practically flew down the rest of the mountain.’

 

We only had soft drinks at the gate and were saving the beer for later!

 

 

 

 

We made our way to the car park at the gate and said goodbye to all the porters, guides etc.  True to his word Stuart, changed from his hiking boots into trainers, put his boots into his kit bag, zipped it up then gave it all, lock, stock and barrel to Makeke, the head guide.  Stuart had said throughout ‘There is no way on earth I am going to wear any of this again, so I will give it away at the end of the trek, as there is no point in taking it home!’   –   Nice one Stuart!

As for my kit, I may need it again as my family are trying to persuade me to do the three peaks this summer!!!

 

The bus journey back to the hotel only took 30 minutes.  We got our room keys and started to have our many showers and baths.  I had a quick shower (the water was absolutely filthy!) and then went down for a nice swim, whilst Craig showered and bathed.  I came back for another shower and then we all met at 7 p.m. in the bar.  Things were obviously getting back to normal as we settled down to watch football on the TV drinking a beer and eating crisps and nuts!  We were given our certificates by Makeke and organised a safari the next day for those that wanted to go.  We ignored the power cut (with only a few minutes of the footie to go), ordered our dinner then turned in for the night – on real mattresses!  You can tell Craig was particularly happy about this just from the look on his face.

Since we were back I did a quick check of my body and this is how it was.

Feet: Remarkably good condition-only one tiny blister that I didn’t even know about until I looked for it.

Calves: Tightening up – climbing stairs to our room wasn’t easy!

Thighs: Not as sore as the day before but still quite stiff.

Stomach: Still very dodgy but seemed to be on the mend.

Back: Amazingly well – no pain, no soreness and only twinge during the whole trek.  (Who would have thought I would have managed to climb a mountain after a back operation?)

Right Arm: Still hurt from before I left, but didn’t seem to bother me during the trip.

Forearms: Burnt and peeling from the last few days trekking.

Lips: Blistered and really painful from sun exposure on summit night.

Tongue: Really painful due to strange grooves on the side of it.  The middle was white and furry too!!!  All ok now I have to say.

Neck: A bit sunburnt aswell.

Fingers: Sore and split cuticles.

These were all really  minor things compared to the trek as a whole, I just wanted to list them out so I didn’t forget when I read this back.  I then said I would arrange for a manicure, pedicure and body massage on my return, which I am happy to say was arranged and was most enjoyable.

 

We all gathered in the dining tent after our short rest.  As usual they provided a good spread of food but at this meal no one could really be bothered to eat or lift a knife and fork.  After a while one of the cooking team came in to clear some plates and when he saw that we had eaten practically nothing the look on his face was one of disappointment and dejection.  We felt guilty about not eating as they must have put so much effort to get the food there and prepare it for us.  The cooked beef, banana/plantain casserole (traditional African recipe!), vegetables in sauce (that looked like they had reappeared from before!) just didn’t hit the spot.  It was a mixture of exhaustion and the effects of altitude that we didn’t want to eat.  I managed to drink a mug of hot sugary water but at this stage, even a sip started to give me stomach cramps and that put me off eating even more.

During the meal we discussed Craig and wondered how he was doing together with our ascent and descent stories.  One funny moment was when Richard R described Stuart’s negotiation, near the top of the mountain, for some sleep and then how they should get him down.  He offered to “see them right just to get him down!”  We all agreed that getting down was extremely hard and Stuart reminded us that he had said this would be the case all along.

We discussed the remaining trek, which was 4 hours today and 6 – 7 the next day.  It would be fair to say that all of us would have been happy to get in a taxi, aircraft, helicopter – in fact anything that meant we didn’t have to do any more trekking.  The options were discussed with Makeke, who gave s his usual non-committal, see-what-happens reply.  At the end of the conversation it was clear there was no option apart from walking the remaining 4 hours that day and probably walking most of the next.  There was some talk of a rescue for Craig but the details were confused and vague.

 

So, at about 2.30p.m. we set off in the hail, sleet and rain to grind out the next part to our overnight camp.  The hardest part was right at the beginning where we had to climb up over a ridge but after that it was generally downhill all the way.  The jolting movement of walking downhill wasn’t good for my stomach and it seemed like each step caused more cramps.  It seemed like a very long walk and this hadn’t been the case before, but obviously our mind-sets had changed, having achieved the goal of reaching as far as we could get and we now just wanted to get back to the hotel for a rest and shower.

The terrain wasn’t always kind to us and as you can see some of the paths were very rocky.

We also passed some brick built toilets, but as you can see from the photo, they were still basic!

We also passed one of the last points for taking water up towards the summit (as shown).

Fortunately it had stopped raining and was warming up as we got lower down.  The trees and vegetation were noticeably more lush and we were all delighted to make it back to the camp.  As you can see from the map below we are now following the green route out towards the South East and stayed overnight at Horombo Huts.

We arrived just as the sun was going down (around 6.30 ish) and on seeing the huts, which looked most welcome compared to our tents, I did wonder if any were available to sleep in, unfortunately this was not the case and so we got read for our last night under canvas.  Craig was asleep in our tent and so I didn’t disturb him and waited for him to appear before I started to sort out my stuff.  We were so pleased to see that he was looking much better because of the lower altitude.  This was the first chance to catch up with him about the ascent night and it was clear to see he was totally gutted about not making it to the summit.  We all understood this was a huge disappointment to him but at the same time pointed out that he had pushed himself beyond the capacity of most people and should be extremely proud to have got as far as he did, given his condition.

We were all extremely shattered.  Our dinner was prepared quite quickly and I think we ate slightly better than at lunchtime.  However, my mindset was that it didn’t really matter what we did, ate, drunk etc. – tomorrow we would be back at the hotel and start our recovery.  The conversation at supper seemed to concentrate around making tomorrows journey as shorts as possible and ended up with a scenario of trekking to the area of the national park where motor vehicles were allowed and that would take about three and a half to four hours.  There seemed to be no other option.

We went to bed as soon as possible, exhausted, numb but contented.

After our rest at Gilman’s Point it was time to get going and we started to clamber down the highest section of the rocks which, as expected was difficult.  Tired legs were beginning to tell and my thighs in particular were starting to complain.  Nevertheless we were now descending quite quickly and it was refreshing to see the summit becoming further and further away knowing we were getting more and more oxygen.

Eventually we came to the loose screed section which was now unfrozen and looser so we asked what the ‘skiing’ was all about.  James explained that in order to go down as quickly as possible it was a skiing effect that you could do by making large strides but at the same time just letting your footing slip as far as possible before taking the next step.  It was kind of a continuous long-jump motion and James demonstrated how it should be done. David and I started off and eventually got into some kind of rhythm.  It was important to miss the large rocks which would catch your feet and make you fall over but overall I found that it was fairly easy to do.  The slope was very steep and wide, we could see the zig zag path going across it that we used on the way up but could ignore that and just use the whole slope.  You have to remember that we are still at around 5,500 metres so breath was very much at a premium.  I gave the skiing technique a go for several  minutes, after which my legs were becoming so tired I didn’t feel that I could carry it on.  By this time David seemed to have moved quite a way ahead with the guide that was helping him and I was left with two other guides, Hope and James.

I opted for walking down the zig zag path but even that was difficult as your footing slipped away but I was finding it easier than the skiiing technique.  After a few more stops I seemed to get some more energy and so started to slip into the skiing technique once again. It was now warming up and I was able to feel the suns’ heat which was very welcome as was opening my top coat and unzipping some of the layers.   Eventually I could see the Kibo huts at our base camp and I stopped once more for a rest and chat with James and Hope wondering how long there was left to go.  I thought it was about 45 minutes but James said it was only 30. What a relief, we were almost back.

I set off once again making way down to the huts and after a few minutes sensed that there was no one with me.  I looked behind and could see Hope and James quite a way further up the hill where we had stopped. Nothing on the trek happens by accident and I then decided they had decided to let me go down the last 30 minutes on my own.  I didn’t look back  or wave or request confirmation of that from them because I thought that if they had not wanted me to do that they would have been right behind me.  So I carried on on the last section on my own, in the middle of a vast area where I could see no people, no buildings (as the huts had become obscured by the ridge) and behind me was the Kilimanjaro Summit soaring in the bright sunlight.  The skies were clear blue, the air fresh and crisp and I found the whole experience to be deeply moving.  I felt hugely insignificant, looking around trying to take everything in, reflecting on the days that had been, the summit and everything.  I thought about my family, Lorraine and the kids and really became quite emotional and tearful.  I think those few moments were quite a release from everything that had led up to the trek and everything that had happened so far.  I just kept striding and skiing down the hill, stopping whenever I felt like it and being totally inspired and struck by the beauty of the place.

Nearing the camp I thought I had better pull myself together and get ready to meet everybody once I got back.   I really didn’t want those moments to end so slowed down quite considerably.  I could now see David was quite a long way ahead and I wasn’t really worried what time I got back to the camp.  However, it was such a huge relief to get back and know the ascent and descent were over. I returned around 12.30p.m. having left some 12 and a half hours before, totally physically worn out, emotionally drained with highs and lows but so happy with what had been achieved that day.

Near the camp the terrain flattened out and you could slow down to a nice walk.  I wasn’t quite sure what to expect when I got back, whether any of the lads would be around or not, but when I got back there was not a single sole outside.  There was no one to congratulate, ask how their day went or to congratulate  me either.  For a few minutes I was a little bit upset but then again I suppose I shouldn’t really have expected a fanfare or cake or a welcoming committee, but it just would have been nice to see someone! I went to my tent and had a look inside wondering how Craig was going to be but saw that his mattress, sleeping bag and trek bag had gone.  I was a little bit concerned but thought he must have been moved down to the next camp as soon as possible, which, after investigating, turned out to be true.  It was still gloriously sunny and when I got into the tent I was able to remove most of my layers including my boots and socks and rest in the warmth of the sunshine.

I had about an hour to sleep but took about 30 minutes to wind down and I took that opportunity to make a few notes about the ascent night, which I have used for making this blog. Eventually I fell asleep but was awoken after 30 minutes by a very strange drumming sound on the tent.  This turned out to be quite heavy hail, it had clouded over.  I quickly zipped up the outer section of the tent and moved  my boots inside as I didn’t want them to get wet and then put on quite a few layers because without the direct sunshine the temperature had dropped quite dramatically.  I was really quite upset that the hail had come down at that stage because walking in the rain isn’t one of my favourite things and I knew we had another 4 hour trek to do after we  had had a bit of food.  Nevertheless, there was absolutely nothing I could do about it so I got out my waterproofs, put them on and made my way to the mess tent to meet up with the other guys and refuel a bit before our afternoon walk.  We also had to pack up everything and get our bags read once again and this was really quite difficult, being tired with still very little oxygen.  Just stuffing the sleeping bag inside its pack was very hard work, although by this stage it didn’t really matter how it was packed as most of the trek was done and whatever happened we would be back at the hotel the next day and stuff could be sorted out at that stage.

You may have noticed there are no photos in this section so far. That’s because mainly I was so worn out I couldn’t be bothered to get the camera out, it also wasn’t really on my mind at the time! Also my main camera had run out of battery by now and I was using the back up Jason persuaded me to take with (thanks Jason- a great idea!). But I have inserted a few from day 4 approaching Kili so you can understand where we went.

This photo is of Hope leading us, Stuart being 1st in line. Follow the line of the path we are on to a few figures that look like they are near the start of the slope ( but are still a few miles from it!)  Then to the left is a large dark cluster of rocks and on the top right of them is the Kibo Huts camp. Our route up and down is the grey line about a third of the way in from the left that starts towards the right turns left then right. The actual path is perhaps 100 m wide in places and you can start to see just how steep it is.

This photo shows a zoomed in view of above. You can see some long buildings which are the “huts” and get a greater sense of the slopes. Getting the perspective is difficult but remember the altitude difference between Kibo and the summit is about 1,000 m 0r 2/3 of a mile! And that’s straight up, the path will be a lot longer.!!

Well, that’s all for now, I will try to finish off the rest tomorrow. There’s still quite a bit left with 4 hours to the next camp, the final night and  trek, working out how to shorten the final day as much as possible, Craig and his oxygen, the last night at the hotel and journey home!

I have now been home for about 12 hours and am starting to recover.  I still haven’t caught up with all the news about Japan etc. but Lorraine is so into keeping this blog going that instead of settling down in front of the TV for a relaxing evening we are …..doing the blog!

So, reaching Gilman’s point is a huge achievement in itself and congratulations to Richard, Richard and Stuart for reaching the summit.  It wasn’t easy for any of us but David and I just seemed to have the ability for that extra push to Uhuru.

We weren’t allowed much of a break at Gilman’s, a few photos, a quick congratulatory hug for Richard, then confirming to our guide James we wanted to go on with a quick conversation and nod of the head he led us on our way.

Iam trying to think of how to describe the next two hours it took to reach Uhuru Peak but can’t really find a quick way of doing that.  The terrain was mainly inclines but there we some welcome short flat or downhill parts.  It was both rocky and occasionally sandy scree.  Part of the path was covered in knee high snow that had become like ice and at those places we had to follow the footsteps that had previously been made through it, which were very slippery and finding a place for the poles was difficult as they were on top of the snow but our feet were down below.

At roughly the half way point we reached Stella Point (5756 metres) which is where another trail up joins.  I hadn’t heard of this point before but you could see  Uhuru from here although it still looked like there were two long uphill sections to conquer.

By now I was pretty tired and breathing was becoming more and more difficult.  I needed to stop more frequently but James (the guide) just kept urging us forward.  I had learnt a technique of focussing on a nearby object rather than the end which should help in making each goal shorter.  So, I set my sights on, for example, five rocks ahead or the end of the next piece of snow before I would allow myself another rest.  Often, when I got to that target I would not rest but move the target on again ..and again, until eventually I couldn’t go on without a break.  This really did help with the final parts and seemed to make it go quicker with those small senses of achievement giving a much needed boost.

David seemed to be coping better with the altitude than me, but even he was visibly finding it more and more difficult.  Then all of a sudden we rounded a corner at the top of a hard slope and about 300 m in front on relatively level ground was Uhuru Peak, our ultimate goal.  For me, at that stage, even though we weren’t there, it felt like we had made it and the job was, all but done.  I felt like I had more energy and walked on.

About 10 metres from the sign I stopped and waited a few seconds for David to catch up.  It didn’t seem right one of us should get there first so we put our arms around each other to get ready for the final few metres, but that action seemed to signal the emotions of completing the trek there and then.  We shed a few tears, hugged and walked together to the sign.

We took photos and spent a few minutes at the top but, as at Gilman’s Point there wasn’t any more time available and we had to get going back.  I wanted to phone home (albeit at 6 in the morning) but guess what ……no phone signal!   I was very upset because I knew they were waiting to hear if I had made it or not and I wanted to share the moment with them.  But it could not be and there was nothing I could do about it.

During the trek Stuart had been saying he was more concerned about going down than up, but I hadn’t really given the downward trip much thought.  My focus was on reaching the top and I knew that when I had done that I would get down somehow.  How long it took to get down, how I felt going down and so on, was irrelevant because me the goal was reaching the top.  Perhaps this was a little naive because I found descending the hardest part of the whole trek.  Thinking about it now if I would have given it more mental preparation perhaps that would have made a difference, but then again that could have detracted from concentrating on the ascent.

Anyway, we started to walk back but James told us to pick up the pace as it was best to get down as soon as possible.  That made sense because there is more oxygen at the lower levels, however the difference in height between Uhuru and Gilman’s is only 210 metres and that doesn’t make much difference.  The increased pace was taking its toll on me and I was beginning to feel dizzy and my footing was becoming less certain.  I asked James for some breaks or to slow down but he just responded with ‘ We need to get down quickly and you can have a rest at Gilman’s, which is just round the corner’.  Well by now we had worked out that the guides ‘just round the corner’ or ‘it’s only 10 minutes away’ were stretching the point!  I knew there were several corners before Gilman’s and that turned out to be true.  James however helped me in the dangerous sections by linking arms and supporting me. Unfortunately the downhill bits going towards Uhuru were obviously uphill on the way back!

We made it back to Gilman’s in about 30 minutes compared to the 2 hours it took on the way there, which is an indication of how much faster we were going.  True to his word James gave us a 10 to 15 minute break at Gilman’s where we could enjoy a warm drink and trying to bite a few corners off one of our frozen energy bars!  I hadn’t eaten or drunk very much during the ascent because of the cold and generally not feeling like it, but I forced a third of an energy bar down as I knew this was necessary.  By now we had been going for 9 and a half hours practically non-stop and there was still another 3 to go.

Before the ascent Makeke and James had said there was a possiblity of  ’skiing down’ but they would explain at the time what this meant…..however I am getting very tired now and shall explain what that means in the next post!!!

So here we all are back at the hotel after our epic week, all safe and sound. I am still at the hotel with Craig, enjoying a few hours of R&R whilst the others have gone off on a short Safari. I’ve been lucky to have been on Safari before so gave this opportunity a miss. We all have a lot more to say and the blog will keep growing over the next few weeks so please keep watching!

Here is my summit night story….

I had been feeling really good all the way through the trek, coping well with the walking, camping, climate and altitude. Its my kind of thing and before I left was determined to enjoy every minute,which I was doing. It was all amazing.

At 11pm we were woken, not that it was easy to sleep! We were mostly dressed but had a few minutes to add some layers, get our boots on and meet for breakfast! I couldn’t really eat due to the odd hour, excitement and altitude effects but forced down some porridge and a hot drink. I was so excited I could sense the adrenalin rushing which didn’t help the shortage of breath and constant feeling of breathlessness.

I had on full body under armour (modern thermals!!) 2 mid weight and one heavy fleece, thick soft-shell trousers then waterproof trousers on top and (Leons’!) thick summit coat with my waterproof coat in reserve in my backpack, just in case it got really cold even though we were keeping weight to a minimum that night, this was an important luxury I allowed myself. Then it was a thermal balaclava plus thermal hat on top and 2 layers of gloves. I had just one pair of specially thick summit socks but others had 2 pairs on (which I don’t like to do). Oh yes then there is the head torch to complete the set!

It was a clear night, no clouds, so many starts its amazing, the milky way was showing in all its splendor but its all too difficult to take in at the time. We were so lucky as it had been that way the whole time on the trek.

Our water packs were given back to us and warm water was in the metal thermal flasks (that was the only important thing I left at home so they just put it in my ordinary metal bottle!!) In go the purification tablets, I added sports energy powders too, we loaded up our back packs and off we went around midnight.

We snaked off in our line of head torches. In previous days we had established a running order of Stuart, Richard R, Craig, Me Richard P, David. It just kind of happened that way. We tried to keep that order as much as possible but this night they put Craig 1st as he was so poorly ( by the way he is amazingly well now, such a difference at normal (we are still at 1700 meters!) levels. He is sunning by the pool and chilling out!).

Our pace was really set by Craig, but due to his cough, was very slow and regularly stopping. (note to Neil, enough detail on this for the moment!). I was feeling quite warm but noticing the cold when we stopped.

After perhaps half an hour I realised my excitement was causing me to breathe so fast, I made a conscious effort to calm down and regularise my breathing as much as possible. This worked although regular is probably the wrong word here!

I had been used to drinking my camel pack of 2 litres  plus 1 in my metal bottle each day plus more. We knew they would all freeze at some stage and it became very hard to get anything to drink after a couple of hours.

I had no concept of time or distance, you just keep going following the person in front, in silence, left right, left right, trying to breath wondering how far you could get. My I-pod was going in one ear, the other fell out and I could be bothered to put it in again as that needed me to take off gloves. In the end I preferred it that way as I could also hear what was going on.

At some stage I heard that Craig had fallen over and would probably go back. It was a super-human effort to get as far as he did (5000mtrs). We all felt very sad for Craig but had to go on.

We learned that by now we were 1.5 hours behind schedule and realised that to have any chance of the extra 2.5hr round trip to Uhuru Peak  from Gilmans Point we had to step up the speed. As a group we all decided that Stuart and Richard R wouldn’t go for the extra round trip, David & I would and Richard P would come with us too as it was his only way of finding out if it was possible for him.

Sorry, I have to leave it here as I am out of time on the net, need lunch and have to pack!!. More from the UK….!!!

Well,  as we have a 3 hour stop over in Nairobi en route home, I’m using some of the time to continue my story. I haven’t had time to look at Richards version so sorry if some is repeated. Now where were we….

It wasn’t easy to split up the group but all agreed it was best overall.  We did ask the gudes if we all stayed together if there was any chance of having time to reach Uhuru. All they would say was, we will see when we get to Gilmans! Not much help at all!

So on the 3 of us went with an assistant guide and local young lady who was going up Kili for the first time (her name was Hope, most apt!….. lovely skin!! sorry, one of the trek jokes!). We were gasping for breath but going faster. It was hard going. The terrain lower down was mostly frozen scree but due to the steep gradients sometimes we would slip back. Not good when its so hard to move forward!

I lost all sense of time. All physical and mental efforts went in to just moving. It was just one step at at time and get closer, another step. etc. As we went up the temperature fell noticeably and stopping for a rest resulted in legs, feet and hands starting to get cold even after a few minutes. It was about one or two big gasps of breath to one step with a heartbeat even quicker!

Then it seems all of a sudden we were at Jamaica Rocks, the 3/4 point. It was about 6a.m. and we had been going since Midnight.  As one of the guides went down with Craig, replacements were sent up ( amazing logistics again) and one of them joined us. An offer was made for him to carry the backpack for David & I which we happily accepted. James our lead guide had Richards. What a difference that made and I felt slightly rejuvenated. By then all the water was frozen so there was little point of having access to it via the mouth piece from the camel pack.

On we went and came to the final approach. This was steep and rocky. Very hard work needing hands on rocks not just the walking sticks to get up. I always looked for the smallest step possible as I find that’s easier for me but sometimes the step was knee high. I can’t really explain the effort needed at this point. Breathing hard, 50% of normal oxygen, having climbed for 6+ hours, tired from the previous days, lack of sleep etc etc.

Then it was sunrise, when we should have been at Gilmans. We were told it was only 30 minutes to go and that cheered me up because we had made up so much time. Its difficult to tell how much the increased pace took out of us but I still think we had no choice.

The sunrise was so spectacular and special. For some reason it was an emotional time for me and David.  I became a bit tearful! The horizon was huge, the sky clear and I think we could see the earths curvature. We couldn’t stop for that long because of the cold but managed some photos. And on we went.

It was so hard but eventually we made it to Gilmans point (5681 metres) . As Richard R said, ‘you put all that effort in and all there is at the summit is a scruffy sign!’  How true.  It was a strange sense of achievement but no time for it to sink in. We did a few photos, had a quick rest. Richard R made his descison to go down with the extra guide as he had really given his all in getting up the last section.  David and I agreed we would attempt the extra 2.5 hours round trip to Uhuru.

I have to go now, more to follow tomorrow.

Neil x

 

Richard P has managed to get through a couple of e-mails re: their experience of summit night and these are attached for you.

Neil, however is yet to blog…..but will keep you posted as soon as he can.  At the time of updating this blog (Sunday 13 March – 10.30 a.m) I have just spoken to Neil and they are still descending (see Rongai Route Narrative for what they are doing now).  They all seem in pretty good spirits  and are looking forward  to a bath,shower,swim and sleep……oh and beer!  From speaking with Neil (albeit the signal cutting in and out) I get the impression that everything there is as far from normality and everyday life as you could possibly get and the descent has been gruelling.

The determination of all of the guys has been and still is remarkable, so impressive and to be commended.  So well done to each and every one of them for their own personal successes – what an amazing adventure for them all.

Narrative from Rongai Route post – look back on Rongai Route post to see route of their descent

A sustained descent with wide views across the moorland takes us into the lovely forest around Mandara (2,700m), the first stopping place on the Marangu route. The trail continues through semi-tropical vegetation to the National Park gate at Marangu (1,830m). We leave the local staff to return to our hotel in Marangu by mid-afternoon for a well-earned rest and a much needed shower and beer! Approx 5-6 hours walking.

Richard’s e-mails below:

Where to start?

At the beginning I guess. We are awoken by a tap on the hut at 11pm. We’ve all slept in our (coldest day) trekking gear.

We unenthusiastically have some breakfast and set off at midnight, armed with our headlamps.

Craig is suffering with a chest infection but decides to give it a crack. We’re all a bit worried about him, but I guess it has to be his decision. So off we go, single file, in a snaky line. The really steep bits are done in traversing style, like skiing.

After about an hour, Craig calls time and is taken down. We’re a guide down.

There are two targets on Kili. The first one is Gilmans Point at 5681 metres and then round the crater rim (Killy is a volcano) to Uhuru Point at 5985 metres, a further 3-4 hour round trip. Its a bit like a pass and a pass with honours.

After a further 2 hours or so, Maikeke – our main guide – says we’re going too slowly if we want to do Uhuru Point as well and he offers to split the group. The 2 best walkers in the group, Neil and David, want to press on and Stu and Richard R want to go at their own slower pace, almost certain not to get the chance to go on to Uhuru. I need to make a decision and decide to go with Neil and David, at the risk of slowing them up. I would like the option of going for Uhuru. The guides are split again.

Next problem, our water supply freezes on the mountain. We were told it might and that we should blow back into our camel packs to avoid that happening. It didn’t work.

We press on relentlessly and eventually gain an hour or so on Stu and Richard R. But after 5 hours or so, I am beginning to struggle. I’m conscious that I don’t want to hold up David and Neil, but the pace is a bit strong for me and the legs are beginning to lose power and the breathing – now at nearly 18,000 feet – is extremely difficult.

The first sign of light is at about 5.45am and there is a magnificent sunrise at 6.20am. I’m glad of the rest while we take pictures.

The last hour of the climb is incredibly rocky and steep. I’m out on my feet and can’t take more than 4 or 5 steps without stopping. Sounds ridiculous, I know. I’m just determined to get to the top and have already ruled out the possibility of the extra 3-4 hour round trip to Uhuru Peak.

At 7am, after a gruelling 7 hour climb, we reach Gilmans Point. The feeling is not elation however, just complete exhaustion. I have never been so physically and emotionally drained. I’m a bit emotional and confess I shed a tear or two, although I don’t think the others saw!

David and Neil press on to Uhuru Peak and I’m ready to be helped down the mountain. Another guide down.

You’d think going DOWN the mountain would be easy. It isn’t. It took 3 hours and was in its way more stressful on the legs, particularly the knees, than going up. Just not as hard on the breathing. I have to stop many times and eventually make the bottom at about 10.45am – that’s about 10 hours so far today.

On the way down, I look for Stu and Richard R but can’t see them. The thought occurs to me that they have ended up doing Uhuru, which would mean I had made the wrong decision. As it happens, they both turned back at Gilmans too and I couldn’t have gone any further whatever pace I’d gone at.

Craig has already set off for the next campsite and Stuart and Richard R appear shortly afterwards, completely exhausted. Stuart’s ill too with a chest infection. Neil and David appear soon, but there’s no real elation, we’re all too tired to talk or express anything coherently.

So after the night/morning from hell, we have to trek 3-4 hours to our next campsite. Pretty absurd itinerary. Made worse by the fact that the first two hours were in driving hail and sleet. Lovely.

We arrive at the campsite where at least there’s a signal for the first time in a while. David thinks it looks like a refugee camp. All the tents are leaking and we just want our creature comforts back – quickly !!!!

None of us have any appetite, odd considering the energy expended today, and we all go to our sleeping bags early. Except my zips broken – aarghhh !!!!

An unforgettable day.